Shoe-sewing machine.



PATEN'IED MAY 23,.1905. z. T. FRENCH & W. o. MEYER.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DBO. 6, 1898.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

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LIE tn 5 W X f No. 790,790. PATENTED MAY 23, 1905.

I Z. T. FRENCH & W. G. MEYER.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIOATION FILED DEG. s. 1898.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Irwezaivns,

No. 790,790. PATENTED MAY 23, 1905. Z. T. PRENGH'& W.'G. MEYER. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIOATIONI'ILBD DEO.6, 1898.

wumvsmm a WESEEE'.

No. 790,790. PATENTED MAY 23, 1905-. Z. T. FRENCH 8: W. C. MEYER.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIOATION FILED D30. 6, 1898.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

III/II H a ...l

No. 790,790. Patented May 23, 1905.

NTTE STATES PATENT ZACHARY T. FRENCH AND WILLIAM C. MEYER, OF BOSTON, MASSACHU- SETTS; SAID FRENCH ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COM- PANY, A (JORPORATION OF MAINE.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N0. 790,790, dated. May 23, 1905.

Application filed December 6, 1898. Serial No. 698,463.

To all whom it y 007L067! held by a tension device it is necessary that a Be it known that we, ZACHARY T. FRENCH very hard tension be applied to the thread. and W ILLTAu (l. MEYER, of Boston, county of In fact, a tension device should be employed Suffolk, and State of Massachusetts, have inwhich is practically equal to a yielding lock- 5 vented an Improvement in Sewing-Machines, ing device, which will hold the thread posiof which the following description, in connectively and only allow it to be drawn a little tion with the accompanying drawings, is a just as the stitch is set, yielding to prevent specification, like characters on the drawings the thread breaking. Such a hard tension on representing like parts. the thread makes it difficult to draw off the IQ This invention relates to sewing-machines; thread from its supply, and therefore means and it has for its object to improve the means are herein provided for operating the tension employed for forming and setting the stitch device in such manner that when the thread and also to provide means whereby a very is being drawn from its supply the tension hard tension may be employed for the needlewill be relieved and when the stitch is being 5 thread when setting the stitch,which is of such set an excessively hard tension will be apa degree as to practically constitute a yield plied. The sewing machine herein shown ing lock device or clamp for the needleand to which this feature of our invention is thread. applied has a threadclamp which positively The invention herein shown is applied to holds the needle-thread while a pull-off oper- 20 weltsewing machinessuch, for instance, as ates to draw elf a quantity of needle-thread shown and described in Letters Patent No. for the next stitch, and the tension device is 705,063, dated July 22, 1902, granted to us; designed to be operated substantially simulyet the different features thereof may be aptaneously with said thread clamp, so that plied to other sewing-machines and advantawhen the thread-clamp is operated to clamp 5 geously used. the thread the tension device will be oper- In the welt-sewing machine shown in the ated to relieve the tension, and when the patent above referred to a measured quantity thread clamp is operated to disengage the of shuttle-thread is drawn from its supply for thread the tension device will be operated to the next stitch, and such result is therein apply a hard tension, and consequently as 3 shown as accomplished by moving rearward the take-up operates to set the stitch an exthe shuttle-carrier, after which said shuttlecessively hard tension will be applied. carrier is moved forward into proximity to Prior to this invention when usingathreadthe needle, and when the shuttle-carrier is clamp to hold the thread while the pull-off opthus moved forward the shuttle-thread, which erates to draw 03 a quantity of thread from 35 has been drawn off, becomes slack, and in some its supply if the tension was applied too hard instances this slack shuttle thread causes the thread was liable to slip and chafe in the trouble in forming the stitch. Herein we thread-clamp; but by providing means for rehave provided means for taking up this slack lieving the tension at the time the thread is shuttle-thread, due to moving forward the clamped by the thread-clamp this trouble is 4 shuttle into proximity to the needle, and for prevented.

thereafter giving it up again gradually, as re Figure 1 shows in front elevation a sewingquired in setting the stitch, the shuttle-thread machine embodying our present invention. being thus held taut while it is being given Fig. 2 is a left-hand side elevation of the sewup gradually as the stitch is being set. ing-machine shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a 45 It is very desirable in many instances and right-hand side elevation of the sewing-mawith some classes of work to draw the needlechine shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is a detail threadexcessively tautwhen settingthestitch, showing the shuttle and shuttle-carrier and and as the needlethread is carried over and means for moving said shuttle-carrier. Fig.

- is a detail showing in longitudinal section the means for operating the tension device for the needle-thread.

The sewing-machine which we have herein shown for the sake of illustrating this invention is the welt-sewing machine of our Patent No. 705,063, to which reference may be had.

The main frame comprises, essentially, the upright or column A, surmounted by a table A, having erected thereon several vertical uprights A which are constructed and arranged to afford bearings for the main shaft B, which has secured to it several operating-cams, and said uprights also afford bearings for the rod or bar C and for the other operating parts of the machine.

a represents the wax-pot.

brepresents the thread-wheel of the tension device, it being represented as a wheel having a grooved periphery and mounted to freely turn on a bar 6, projecting horizontally from the frame. A friction-disk 6 (see Fig. 7) is mounted to slide along on said bar 6' and to bear frictionally against said thread-wheel to thereby apply the required tension, and said friction-disk is acted upon by a strong spiral spring 6 surrounding the bar 6, which bears at one end against said friction-disk and at the opposite end against a hand wheel 6, which is screwed onto the bar 6, and by turning said hand-wheel in one or the other direction the stress of said spring will be varied and the tension on the thread accordingly regulated. The bar 6 is made hollow and receives within it a rod 0', the inner end of which has a transverse hole through it, through which is driven a pin U, which is made long enough to project a short distance from the rod at each side, or in lieu of said pin the rod may be provided with any form of laterallyprojecting pins or studs. Both projecting ends of said pin 5 pass through slots 6 in the hollow bar 6 and engage the friction-disk 6 so that by moving said rod 6 in the direction of its length said friction-disk b may be moved along on the bar 6, and thereby caused to engage or disengage the tension-Wheel 6, according to the direction of movement of the rod. Asameans for moving said rod 1" longitudinally a cam-lever Z) is provided, which is pivoted to the projecting end 6 of said rod 6 (see dotted lines, Fig. 7,) the cam-like portions 6 of said lever bearing upon a washer or plate placed on the projecting end I) of said rod 6 and bearing against the end of the bar 6 and against a collar or flange on said bar, so that as said cam-lever b is turned on its pivot in one direction the rod 6 will be withdrawn from the hollow bar 6, and as said cam-lever is turned back into the position shown in Fig. 7 said rod will berestored to its normal position. This cam-lever b is formed with a hand piece by which it may be operated by hand, if desired. It will be seen that the friction-disk b may thus be removed or disengaged from the thread-wheel 6 whenever desired to thereby relieve the tension on the thread, or said tension may be-applied as hard as desired, according to the stress of the spring 6 It is herein desired to also provide means for operating said tension device automatically at predetermined times, as will be hereinafter described, and to accomplish this result an arm 6 (see Figs. 1 and 2) projects from a hub 6 mounted on a bar 6 supported by the frame, and said arm 6 has at its outer end an adjusting screw or stud b, properly disposed to strike the cam-lever when said arm is elevated or brought forward to thereby operate said cam-lever to remove the friction-disk from the thread-wheel, and thereby relieve the tension on the needlethread. The hub 6 is rocked at predetermined times by means to be described.

While the construction of the parts herein described for operating the tension device are simple and effective, and so also the means employed for automatically operating them, yet we desire it to be understood that so far as our invention is concerned we do not desire to limit ouurselves to the particular construction herein shown.

It is designed and intended that the camlever b shall be operated automatically by the means thus described for each stitch to momentarily relieve the tension on the needlethread while the needle-thread is being drawn from its supply by means to be described and to thereafter apply a hard tension while the stitch is being set and, furthermore, that the cam-lever 6 having the handpiece, shall be operated by hand to relieve the tension permanently whenever desired as, for instance, when the work is being drawn from the machine.

0 represents a pull-off for the needle-thread, which operates in conjunction with other parts to be described to draw off of the thread-supply a measured quantity of needle-thread for the next stitch, and, as herein shown, (see Fig. 2,) said pull-off consists of a bell crank lever pivoted at c to the frame, having a roll 0 at the extremity of one of its arms over which the thread 2 passes and having the extremity of its other arm connected by a rod or bar 0 with a slotted arm 0*, projecting from a hub 0 mounted on and adapted to oscillate on the bar C. To said hub 0 a rearwardly-projecting arm 0 is secured, which has at its extremity a stud ohwith or without a roll thereon, which enters a cam-groove formed in one side or face of a cam wheel or disk D, which is secured to the main shaft B, said cam-groove being formed in the righthand side or face of said disk. The rod or bar 0 is adjustably connected with the slotted arm 0 so that the pull-off 0 may be adjusted in such a manner that it may operate to pull off more or less needle-thread from the thread-'supply, as desired.

A thread-clamp is provided next to the pull-off, (see Fig. 2,) by means of which the needle-thread may be held while the pull-off is operated to draw off a measured quantity of thread. The thread-clamp is herein shown as a grooved roll a, over which the thread 2 passes, mounted on a fixed stud e, and a thread-engaging finger e pivoted at 0 having its lower end constructed and arranged to clamp the thread 2 in a groove formed in the periphery of said roll 6 and having its upper end connected by a rod or bar 0* with an arm 0 projecting from the hub 6 which is mounted to oscillate on the bar 6 An arm or lever 6 projects rearwardly from said hub I), having a stud at its extremity,with or without a roll thereon, which enters a cam-groove in one side or face of the cam wheel or disk D, said cam-groove being formed in the righth'and side or face of said disk. locking finger e and the arm Z2 for operating the cam-lever b are thus operated simultaneously by said cam D. The thread-clamp opcrates to clamp and hold the needle-thread while the pull-off 0 draws a measured quantity from the needle-thread supply; but a pull-off and thread-clamp for the needlethread whereby a measured quantity is or may be drawn from the thread-supply for the next stitch to be formed is shown in our Patent No. 412,708, dated October 8, 1889, so that we do not herein broadly claim such features, except as hereinafter stated.

The thread 2 passes from the thread-clamp to an auxiliary take-up, which, as herein shown, consists of a short arm 6, pivoted at t" to the main frame and having at its lower extremity a roll over which the thread 2 passes and having two rearwardly-projecting ears r1 located a short distance apart, or in lieu thereof it may be a slotted arm, which receives between them the stud 2' which latter serves as a stop to limit the movement of said arm 71 in each direction. A spring a is con.- nected at one end to said arm 2' and at the other end to the frame, which operates to draw said arm rearward and hold it with one of its projections i in engagement with the stop 2 As the thread 2 is drawn up by the main take-up, to be described, the auxiliary take-up will yield.

The thread 2 passes from the auxiliary takeup to the main take-up, which, as herein shown, consists of an arm m. (see Figs. 2 and 3,) having at its extremity a roll over which the thread 2 passes, said arm projecting from a hub 122/,mounted upon the bar G and adapted to oscillate thereon as required, and an arm m projects rearwardly from said hub m, having at its rear extremity a stud, with or without a roll thereon, which enters a camgroove formed or provided in one side or face of a cam wheel or disk D, which is secured to the main shaft B, said groove being formed in the right-hand side or face of said The thread-- disk D. The parts are herein so disposed relatively to each other and so timed that when the take-up is in its elevated position the thread-clamp will be operated to clamp the thread in order that the pull-off 0 may operate to draw off a supply of thread for the.

next stitch, and at or about the same time that the thread-clamp is thus operated the arm 6 will be moved forward to engage the cam-lever 6 and thereby operate the tension device to relieve the tension on the thread, so that while the pull-off c is operating the tension on the threadwill be relieved. As soon as the desired quantity of needle-thread has been drawn off the thread-clamp will be op erated to release the thread, and at the same time the tension device will be operated to apply a hard tension.

The thread 2 passes from the take-up m to the looper-arm n, which is secured to the forward end of a horizontal shaft a, (see Fig. 3,) having its bearings in a part of the framework. The horizontal shaft a, bearing the looper-arm mextends rearward to the rear side of the machine, and means are provided for oscillating said shaft on its axis and for moving it back and forth longitudinally, (which it is not deemed necessary to herein describe in detail,) whereby the looper-arm is operated to carry the thread around the needle.

A thread-finger 0 is provided which is adapted to carry the needle-thread rearward] y from the looper-arm, and, as herein shown, said thread-finger 0 is curved and provided with a recessed or grooved end which receives the thread, and said thread-finger 0 projects from a hub 0', pivoted to the frame, and a short arm 0 projects rearwardly from the said hub, the extremity of which is connected by a vertical rod or bar 0 with the forward end of an arm 0*, projecting from an oscillating hub mounted on the bar (J, and said hub has projecting rearwardlyfrom it an arm having a stud, with or without a roll thereon, which enters a cam-groove formed or provided in one side or face of the wheel or disk 1), being herein formed in the right-hand side of said disk.

9 represents a channelguide,and s the feeding-awl of the feeding mechanism; but said parts and the means employed for operating them are not herein described in detail, as said feeding mechanism forms the subjectmatter of our Patent No. 781,596, dated January 31, 1905.

The back gage a, which may be made as a welt-guide, if desired, is adapted to be moved back and forth or toward and from the work to cooperate with the feeding-finger in holding the work, it being designed to engage the work and hold it from retrograde movement when the feeding-finger is returning to its normal position or starting-point after having fed along the work and also to cooperate with the feeding-finger in holding the work in a fixed position while the take-up is dea direction toward the work.

scending. The back gage is attached to a longitudinally sliding bar supported by means provided for it, and means are provided for moving the back gage rearwardly a predetermined distance and for locking it, which it is not deemed necessary to herein describe in detail, as such mechanism forms no part of our present invention, being shown in our Patent No. 781,596, before referred to.

The curved hooked needle t is secured to the needle-segment t, (see dotted lines, Fig. 3,)

- which is pivoted to the frame of the machine and which is loosely connected by a short link :5 which may be curved more or less, with an arm 25 projecting from a hub 6 mounted on the bar C, said arm i having a rear extension which is provided with a stud which enters a cam-groove formed or provided in one side or face of the cam wheel or disk D", said groove being herein formed in the left-hand side of said disk.

The shuttle w,'(see Fig. L) which is adapted to be oscillated by a suitable shuttle-driver, is of any suitable or usual construction and is set concentrically in a shuttle-carrierw, supported at the forward end of a sliding bar 10 said bar having suitable bearings in the frame in which it is formed and adapted to be moved toward and from the work, and the rear end of said sliding bar 10 is loosely connected to l the upper end of an upright'arm 20 which is stud on the framework, and an arm w" projects upwardly and forwardly from said hub 108, which is provided at its extremity with a stud,

with or without a roll thereon, which enters 45 shuttle move toward and from the work the I bobbin contained in said shuttle and disposed concentrically thereto will be correspondingly moved, and it will be seen that as said shuttleearrier and bobbin are moved rearwardly a predetermined or measured quantity of shuttle-thread sufficient for the next stitch may be drawn-from the bobbin, which is thereafter delivered as said shuttle-carrier is moved in At the time the receding shuttle-carrier is thus drawing shuttle-thread from its supply the needle-thread 2 will be held taut by the take-up m, which will at such time occupy its most elevated posi tion or will occupy a position most remote from the work, and the lock of the last-completed stitch will be set in the work. The needle-thread being thus held taut enables the shuttle-thread to be drawn ofl of its supply without drawing said lock out of the work, which is important, and said taut needle-thread also serves as a point of resistance for the shuttle-thread while it is being drawn off. It will be observed that as said shuttle-carrier moves in and out or is drawn back and forth when it is in its rearmost position ample space is afforded for the descending needle-segment. It will be readily seen that by drawing off the shuttle thread in this manner in suiiicient quantities for the stitches the needle-thread take-up or other member of the stitch-forming mechanism is not obliged to do this work, as is usual in lock-stitch sewing-machines, which, as heretofore stated, is an important feature in the present machine; but we desire it to be understood that instead of drawing off the shuttle-thread by moving the shuttlecarrier rearwardly or otherwise said shuttlethread maybe drawn off of its supply in many ways and by many different devices independent of the needle-thread take-up and independent of the stitch-forming mechanism in the performance of its regular functions.

The shuttle-carrier and oscillating shuttle borne by it are herein designed to be moved away from the needle for the purpose stated of drawing off a supply of shuttle-thread for the next stitch and then to be moved toward the needle for the shuttle to receive the loop of needle-thread or pick off said loop from the needle and then to recede to prevent obstructing the movement of the needle and other parts and then to again move forward, and it will be seen that when the shuttle is thus moved toward the needle to receive the loop the supply of thread previously drawn ofi for the next stitch will become slack and is liable to cause trouble; but when the shuttle is again moved rearward a short distance, so as not to obstruct the operation of the adjacent parts, said slack shuttle-thread is taken up, and as the shuttle again moves forward the shuttlethread so taken up will be given up gradually as required in setting the stitch, being held taut meanwhile. To give the shuttle such additional movement beyond what is provided for in our application above referred to, the groove in the cam wheel or disk D is differently formed, as best shown in Fig. 4:, wherein it will be seen that the shuttle will be given four motions-first, a full rearward motion to draw off a supply of shuttle-thread for the next stitch, then a full forward motion to receive the loop of needle-thread, then a partial rearward movement to take up the slack shuttle-thread and also to prevent obstructing the operation of the adjacent parts, and then a forward motion to gradually give up the shuttle-thread so taken up.

The shuttle-carrier is oscillated as usual, it having a toothed gear 41 which is engaged by a toothed sector a, formed at the extremity of an arm n projecting downward from a hub a1 mounted on the bar C, said arm 0 having a rearwardly-projecting arm o projecting from it, which engages the cam D on the shaft B.

A loop-spreader 2/ is attached to the lower end of an oblique shaft y, having its hearings in the framework, and the upperend of said shaft has a pinion (see dotted lines, Fig. 2) which is engaged by a rack formed on or secured to a bar y, which is adapted to slide in a guideway provided for it, and said rack-bar y is connected by a link y with the lower end of an arm y, which is pivoted at 3 to the frame, said arm having an arm g formed integral with it, which bears a stud which enters a cam-groove formed or provided in one side or face of the cam-disk D. The loopspreader is designed to cross in front of the needle and to move in adirection substantially parallel with the axis of the oscillating shuttle, and it engages the lower thread of the loop on the needle and carries it across in front of the shuttle to thereby form a more or less triangular-shaped loop to receive the beak of the shuttle.

The operation of forming and setting the stitch is as follows: The work being held between the awl and channel-guide p and the back gage u or between thefeeding-finger and back gage and a measured quantity ofneedle-thread having been drawn off of its supply and a measured quantity of shuttlethread having been drawn off of its supply and both the take-up m and shuttle-carrier disposed so as to occupypositions most remote from the work, the needle comes forward, and

'at the same time the take-up m descends to give up the needle-thread and the shuttlecarrier begins its forward movement, the thread-finger moves rearward with the needlethread, the needle penetrates the work, the

looper carries the thread around the hook of the needle, the needle then retreats and passes rearward with the thread thereon back through the work, and the loop of thread is thus drawn through the work. When the needle has thus passed back through the work and is free from the work with the loop of needlethread thereon, the thread-spreader is then brought into position to intercept said loop of needle-thread, carrying the lower thread of the loop, which is onthe left side of the needle, to one side, spreading the two threads and forming a triangle in front of the shuttle,

in which said shuttle thereafter enters. The

shuttle has by this time arrived at its extreme 'forward position in proximity to the needle, and it then oscillates and carries the needlethread upwardly as a loop, taking said loop away from or picking it ofi of the needle, and thereby disengaging it from both the needle and thread-spreader, leaving it free to pass around the shuttle, and at such time the loop thus formed is upon the beak of the shuttle. As the shuttle continues its oscillatory movement to pass through the loop the take-up m continues and finally ceases to descend. The take-up m then rises and draws the loop of thread off of the shuttle, during which time the shuttle moves rearward a short distance, taking up more or less of the slack shuttlethread, (due incidentally to the shuttle having moved forward into proximity to the needle to pick the thread off of the needle,) and said shuttle thereafter again moves forward as the take-up m continues to rise to gradually give up taut shuttle-thread as the take-up sets the stitch, thereby preventing any sudden rupture of the thread in setting the stitch or breaking of the thread in drawing the look into the material. As the takeup operates to set the stitch the needle-thread will be held by the tension device, which at such time is applying or exerting a hard tension on the thread. When the stitch is thus set, the take-up m has arrived at its most extended or remote position from the work, and while in this position, with the needlethread held taut and the lock set in the work, the shuttle is bodily moved rearward in order that a measured quantity of shut tle-thread may be drawn off of the bobbin for the next stitch. Also while the take-up is in such elevated position or immediately after the stitch has been set the thread-clamp and pull-0E operate, respectively, to clamp the needle-thread and then draw off a measured quantity of needle-thread from its supply for the next stitch, during which time the tension device is also operated to relieve the ten sion on the needle-thread, and as soon as said measured quantity of needle-thread has been drawn 03 the thread-clamp and tension device are again operated substantially simultaneously to respectively unclamp or release the thread and apply a very hard tension. We do not, however, herein desire or intend to limit our invention in all respects to operating the thread-clamp and pull-ofi' at this particular time, as it is obvious that said parts may be operated previous to the take-up arriving at its most elevated position thatis to say, while the take-up is rising in which case the thread-clamp will remain in looking engagement with the thread until the supply of shuttle-thread has been drawn off for the next stitch to resist the action of drawing ofi said supply of shuttle-thread, as in our patent above referred to.

We claim- 1. In asewing-machine, an oscillating shut tie, a needle, actuating mechanism for said shuttle and needle, mechanism for taking up the needle-thread and for setting the stitch, and means for holding the shuttle-thread taut after the shuttle has passed through the loop .as described.

of needle-thread and for gradually giving up' 2. In a sewing-machine, the combination ofv stitch-forming mechanism including a shuttle, and means for drawing the shuttle-thread taut after the shuttle has passed through the loop of needle-thread and for giving up said taut shuttle-thread grad ually as the stitch-setting mechanism operates to set the stitch, substantially as described.

3. In a sewing-machine, ashuttle, a needle, actuating mechanism for said shuttle and needle, mechanism for taking up the needle-thread and for setting the stitch, and means for moving the shuttle after it has passed through the loop of needle-thread to gradually give up taut shuttle-thread while the stitch-setting mechanism operates to set the stitch, substantially as described.

4. In a sewingmachine, stitch-forming mechanism including mechanism for setting the stitch, and a shuttle and means for operating said shuttle to draw the shuttle-thread taut and to give up said taut shuttle-thread gradually while the stitch-setting mechanism operates to set the stitch, substantially as described.

5. In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism includinga needle, a shuttle, and stitch-setting mechanism, and means for moving the shuttle toward the needle to receive the loop, and means for taking up the slack shuttle-thread incident to such movement and for thereafter giving up said shuttle-thread while the stitch-setting mechanism operates to set the stitch, substantially incident to such movement and for thereafter giving up said shuttle-thread while the stitchsetting mechanism operates to set the stitch, substantially as described.

7. In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism including a shuttle, means for moving said shuttle rearward to draw off a supply of shuttle-thread for the stitch and for moving said shuttle forward toward the needle to receive the loop and means for taking up the slack shuttle-thread incident to such movement and for thereafter giving up said shuttle-thread while the stitch is being set, substantially as described.

8. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a shuttle, and actuating mechanism for said needle and shuttle, means for moving said shuttle rearward to draw off a supply of shuttle-thread for a stitch, then forward toward the needle to receive the loop, then rearward to take up the slack of the shuttle-thread after it has received the loop, and then again forward to gradually give up said shuttlethread as the stitch is being set, substantially as described.

9. In a sewing machine, stitch forming mechanism including aneedle and an oscillating shuttle, a shuttle-carrier bearing said oscillating shuttle, means for oscillating said shuttle, and means for moving said shuttle-carrier to draw off a quantity of shuttle-thread for a stitch, for then moving it toward the needle for the shuttle to receive the loop, for then moving it to take up the slack slmttle-thread and then for moving it to gradually give up the shuttle-thread so taken up, substantially as described.

10. In a sewing-machine, stitch-forming mechanism including a shuttle, a needle, and actuating mechanism therefor, means for moving the shuttle toward the needle to receive the loop, then away from the needle to take up the slack incident to the aforesaid movement and for thereafter moving said shuttle again toward the needle to give up the sh uttlethread gradually as the stitch is being set, substantially as described.

11. In a sewing-machine, the combination ofstitch-forming mechanism including ashuttle, means for drawing measured quantities of needle-thread and shuttle-thread from their supplies for the next stitch, means for giving up the needle-thread, means for moving the shuttle toward the needle to receive the loop, means for taking up the slack shuttle-thread incident to thus moving the shuttle, and means for thereafter again giving up said shuttlethread gradually as the stitch is being set, substantially as described.

12. In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism including a shuttle, means for drawing off a measured quantity of needle-thread for the next stitch, and means for moving the shuttle to draw off a measured quantity of shuttle-thread for the next stitch, a needle-thread take-u p, means for moving said take-up toward the needle togive up the needle-thread, means for moving the shuttle toward the needle to receive the loop, means for then moving the shuttle away from the needle to take up the slack shuttle-thread and hold it taut, and means for thereafter moving the shuttle again toward the needle to give up the taut shuttle-thread as the stitch is being set, substantially as described.

13. In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism including an os cillating shuttle, means for holding the needlethread taut, a shuttle-carrier bearing the oscillating shuttle, means for operating said shuttle-carrier to draw off a quantity of shuttle-thread while the needle-thread is thus held taut, means for moving the shuttle-carrier toward the needle for the shuttle to receive the loop, means for taking up the slack shuttle-thread incident to such movement and means for thereafter giving up said shuttlethread gradually as the stitch is being set, substantially as described.

1 1. In a sewing-machine, the needle and its segment and means for operating it, combined with an oscillating shuttle, its carrier and means for moving said shuttle-carrier at right angles to the axis of said needleto draw off a measured quantity of shuttle-thread and for moving the shuttle-carrier toward the needle for the shuttle to receive the loop, means for oscillating the shuttle, means for moving the shuttle-carrier away from the needle to take up slack shuttle-thread incident to the aforesaid forward movement and means for thereafter moving said shuttle and shuttle-carrier forward to gradually give up shuttle-thread as the stitch is being set, substantially as described.

15. In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism including an oscillating shuttle, a sliding shuttle-carrier bearing said shuttle, means for sliding said shuttle-carrier in a direction at right angles to the axis of the needle away from the work to draw off a supply of sh uttle-thread for the next stitch, then toward the needle for the shuttle to receive the loop, then rearward to take up the slack shuttle-thread incident to moving the shuttle toward the needle, then forward to gradually give up the taut shuttle-thread as the stitch is being set, substantially as described.

16. In a sewing-machine, stitch-forming mechanism, a needle-thread take-up, a threadclamp, means for operating said thread-clamp to lock the needle-thread when the take-up is elevated and the needle-thread drawn taut, means for drawing off a supply of shuttlethread for the next stitch while the needlethread is thus held taut, means for drawing off a supply of needle-thread for the next stitch while the needle-thread is thus held, a tension device for the needle-thread and means for operating it to relieve the tension on the thread while it is being drawn off its supply, substantially as described.

17. In a sewing-machine, stitch-forming mechanism, means for holding the needlethread taut, means for drawing off supplies of shuttle-thread and needle-thread for the next stitch while the needle-thread is thus held taut, operated independent of the stitch-forming mechanism in the performance of its regular functions, a tension device for the needlethread and means for operating it to relieve the tension on the thread when said supply of needle-thread is being drawn ofi', substantially as described.

18. In a sewing-machine, stitch-forming mechanism, means for holding the needlethread taut, means for drawing off supplies of shuttle-thread and needle-thread for the next stitch while the needle-thread is thus held taut, a tension device for the needle-thread and means for operating it to relieve the tension on the thread when said supply of needlethrcad is being drawn 0H and to apply a hard tension when the stitch is being set, substantially as described.

19. In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch -forming mechanism including a stitch-setting device, means independent of the stitch-forming mechanism for drawing off a quantity of needle-thread for the next stitch, a tension device for the needle-thread, means for operating said tension device to relieve the tension on the needle-thread when said needle-thread is being drawn off of its supply and to apply a hard tension when the stitch-setting device operates to set the stitch and means for drawing off a quantity of shuttle-thread for the next stitch operated independently of the stitch-forming mechanism in the performance of its regular functions while the needle-thread is held taut by the stitch-setting device at the completion of the stitch, substantially as described.

20. In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism including a stitch-setting device, a thread-clamp, a pulloff for drawing needle-thread from its supply, means for operating said pull-off while the thread is clamped, a tension device for the needle-thread located between the thread clamp and supply, means for operating said tension device to relieve the tension on the thread when the thread clamp clamps the thread and the pull-off is operating and to apply a hard tension upon the thread, but not lock it when the thread-clamp has disengaged the thread and the stitch-setting device operates to set the stitch, substantially as described.

21. In. a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, including a stitch-setting device, a thread-clamp, a pulloff for drawing a quantity of thread from its supply, 'a tension device for the thread located between said thread-clamp and the supply and means for operating said thread-clamp and tension device to respectively clamp the thread at one point and relieve the tension on the thread between said thread clamp and supply when the pull-off is operating and to thereafter unclamp -the thread and apply a hard tension upon the thread, but not lock it when the stitch-setting device operates to set the stitch, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ZACHARY T. FRENCH. WILLIAM C. MEYER. Witnesses:

B. J. Norms, JENNIE L. I-I ToHINsoN. 

